I didn't take these photos because I haven't yet gone up to Arthur's Seat for the spectacular view I've heard so much about, where these were probably taken, but non-the-less this is the city I am viewing every day and they demonstrate my point better than I could. Edinburgh is a major European city with something happening everywhere, hoards of people in the street at all times and the most modern of any goods and services imaginable though placed in historic buildings, yet it has a sort of small town energy as well because it is so compact, and small communities build quick meaning you will continue to run into the same people often.It's like being in a giant castle because every single building is so ornate. And much of the action of the city is still happening in old town, the part just outside Edinburgh castle, parts of which were built as early as 1100, so you really are right in the middle of an ancient village while there. Most of the surrounding buildings however were built in the 17th century but the oldest remaining is John Knox's house, built in 1450. It's most remarkable because I don't believe I've ever seen anything older than 300 years old. Maybe less. To attempt to comprehend that these buildings are 900 years old, stretches the limits of my understanding. It's unreal. With all the replicas and photos in books I've seen of these things that it is truly hard to phathom that these are the originals built by people that are so long dead they may be turning into oil. If we are lucky.
But the people I'm here with don't quite get that. Ellen lived in Isreal for a year, quite more unfathomable in terms of shelf life, and everyone else I've met is some sort of British or European, most of which have all travelled loads internationally. I feel like such an infant of a traveler. But I'm learning. And loving every minute of it. For all who haven't been here and may possibly have the chance to come, do. It's worth every penny. And it can be done on the cheap. I'm actually meeting my meager budget limits.
I've come to realize something that makes this journey even more important. As Americans what we call our land as citizens is not ours, it is stolen land from people who are now one of the smallest minorities in the country. One of the things I love most about America is that it is so diverse in so many ways, however the side affect of this is that our shared culture is small and scattered, mostly woven out of consumerism, some traditions and the superficial threads of mass media. Americans do not actually have a homeland. We are all immigrants, many of whom don't know much about their family past the last 2 generations. We don't really have a people to speak of. For many of the people here in Scotland, where they are from is where their family has always been from. This is their land, or at least it has been for over a Millennium. Most of the people here are their people and share their history. For them their country is not just a country but a homeland. For most people in the world this is true. It has never been true for me.
Scotland is the closest thing I have to that. It is my most specific ancestral link and most of the rest of my background is some sort of British. For me this Island is the closest thing I have to a homeland. The place where they are all pale like me. And for the first time, I don't feel guilty, on a larger scale, about being on a piece of land, and soiling it with my footprints. In a way it's as though, even though I am a foreigner, I am less foreign here than I am in my own hometown. It's a weird feeling. A sort of nice feeling like getting to go home to a home you never knew. But I'm sure the novelty of it will wear off soon and I will infected with homesickness. I will feel like a stranger again, because my ancestors didn't stay and there's far more to home than history.
Anyways, I flew in Wednesday the 4th and have mostly been doing mild touring since. Still getting over the jet lag that won't let me sleep at night and makes it hateful to wake in the morning, and getting things together. The cold doesn't help at all. It's been mostly in the 30's, day and night making it difficult to want to leave the house, and especially the bed, but once outside it hasn't been so bad. We walk so much it makes it bearable. And I have nice silk long underwear that helps loads. Seattle people be thankful. This is like nothing you get there. Like I was warned, it is a cold like none other, but well worth it.
So far I have seen the Museum of Scotland (a museum that tells you roughly everything about Scotland from the Prehistoric age to the Modern Fashion designers), St Giles Cathedral (The grand beyond belief Church of the Royals at the base of the castle), The Writer's Museum (telling the story of Scotland's most famous writers Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson), The Royal Mile (street where the old parliment is and most of the older buildings/tourist attractions are), GrassMarket (a hip, older area of town), researched U.K sim card plans and have walked almost every inch. Thursday night I helped Ellen's friend prepare for a Shabbot dinner by making Challuh bread (braided egg bread),than Friday I went to the dinner. Apparently in Jewish custom, Shabbot dinner is like a celebration for their Saturday Sabboth in which they bring people together from the community to eat a big meal, pray and talk. I met lots of exchange students from the University of Edinburgh, most from the U.S. and had a great time learning a little bit about a different culture and eating great food.
Tommorow I plan to climb Arthur's Seat early, buy a sim card and watch the Scotland vs. Wales rugby match for the 6 Nations tournament that is happening in Edinburgh. I couldn't get a seat, though Ellen tried as she is working as a waittress at the stadium for the day, so I will be watching it at a pub with her flat mate along with the other drunken fans coming in from all over the world. It's already crazy on the streets so I'm looking forward to an interesting day. You'll here more about it the next time I get a chance to use the computer and hopefully pictures will come but that may be awhile. We'll see. Take care!
- Kim
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